29th Birthday

I must confess that I was somewhat surprised not to receive mid-night calls from the expected callers on my 29th birthday. Instead I received wish-texts from new friends who have in a short span of time secured a strong place in my heart. Jan Seibold, newly weds Kaizad and Monaz Todywalla and surprisingly Claudio Rubini (with whom I share my birthday) sent sweet wishes. Morning of the 20th was not perfect birthday morning.... Morning celebrations involved a two-minute bath, putting away my gorgeous custard-yellow saree in favour of worn-out travelling clothes and packed my bag in a jiffy. Shanti found us an auto rickshaw to take us to Hemang and Akansha Agrawal who were waiting for us at their Naati Imli residence. Nati Imli literally meaning 'short tamarind' is best known for Bharat Milap performance of Ramlila- an emotional episode in Ramayana when the two estranged brothers Rama and Bharat meet. Our English speaking, uber-fashionable (translates to sketchy) auto driver took us through the longest possible route to an area that he called Nati Imli. A smooth ride to Allahabad was achieved in no time. There was hardly anytime when I felt we were in countryside that the map shows between Varanasi and Allahabad. There were always some buildings or ugly under-construction projects by the highway to disqualify the feel of a country side.

I was excited about my first ever visit to Allahabad- a city I associate with my adolescence. Allahabad is the nanihal of a certain somebody. Memories of references to El Chico's, Civil Lines, Elgin Road, Atiq Ahmed and Boys High came instantly. It was a sheer surprise to be treated at El Chico's on my birthday. The restaurant gives you a good retro feel. I enjoyed the afternoon in company of friends, eating good old Jalfrezi with Tandori roti though recovering nostalgia and memories of me eating out with my family took a little effort.

Allahbad is by no means what I had imagined. The British built Civil Lines appears run-down. British built grand public offices around Civil Lines. Grand old trees shield broad roads that cut each other at right angles. The buildings though severe follow an architectural idiom. that gives a wonderful homogeneity. The picture is incomplete until I add a touch of reality here- the grand buildings have been painted over and over generous orangy paan stains, the massive trunks of the old trees have been painted ( whosoever started that trend in India ), particularly sad was to see garbage piles in a church compound, publicity banners of Hotel Kanha Shyam the proud preservers of a narrow strip of green around All Saints overtaking the church boundary. The truth is that Allahabad is an apology in the name of a famed city for modern learning and established university. It is a classic example of the affairs of the state. Encroached spaces, broken roads, a tired land supporting ugly new buildings, littered roads, deafening honking and generators, open drains---characteristics of any city in India characterize Allahabad too. Wonder if democracy worked for India.

By the afternoon of 20th, I was considering writing an entry in my blog on "Why we need British back in India. " An article in a magazine I can not remember on V. Kalyanam, Gandhi ji's secretary came to mind- We are being ruled by goondas- Gandhi ji did not fight the British for today.